I will first go through every item required for the complete setup of a procharger system into a LS6 CTS-V Including a FMIC, bypass valve, injectors, fueling and tuning. ALL included items are in the ITEM LIST page.

There may be other supporting modifications required such as axles, clutch upgrades, motor mounts and vented hood.

Let the long part list begin….

Since the Item list is Huge…

Click HERE to go to that page.

I always found it best to understand as much as possible what you are working with…

Some useful information regarding the LS6 motor:

With the motor being topped with the 243 aluminum heads, these flow quite reasonable for both NA or FI applications. A nice set of roller rockers with 1.8 ratio would bring the lift to 0.584” int / 0.579” exh. No duration change. This of course is above the binding and lift limit of the stock LS6 beehive spring (approx 0.57”), so new springs are needed. Unless ah yes, an untouched LS6 243 casting head doesn’t flow any more from .550 to .600 lift. (refer to bench flow numbers). So, rocker ratio change on stock heads… will not gain you much if anything.

CNC ported LS6 heads on the other hand, introduce a whole new ball game. If you’re just looking for longer duration, not lift flow, then a cam change is the better choice. Dual Springs however give that extra insurance if one actually decides to break on you, it’s rare, but does happen.

A Stock dual mass (mass terd) flywheel seems to hold 500rwhp based on many forum members, but may have a shortened lifespan. Stock Crank will hold 650rwhp very safely and some engine builders claim up towards 900 rwhp with no issues with 10k+ miles put on. Remember, 6 Bolt Mains is found in all these blocks, gotta love GM’s LS series. So, it’s looking like, keep an eye on fuel injector duty %, make sure the pump (with a BAP) is not stressing. Make sure the MAF signal frequency or table (ECM) is not maxed. (512 g/sec hard coded)

Speaking of MAF, since we are going to leave SD tuning for a later date and may never actually go that route (SD tuning and elevation change being bad is an internet myth) and use the Push (blow through) MAF setup, some say its good up to 8psi stock motor without hitting either limits (its probably less for this specific car..), keep notes to have the Bypass valve pre-intercooler to avoid air turbulence, to have the MAF at least 6” from any bend on either side and run closest as possible to the throttle.. Relocation of the MAF is essential, keep close to the throttle, post intercooler. Remember the IAT is part of the MAF specifically for the LS6 so removal would require an IAT sensor fitment, either an aftermarket Quick responding IAT or an LS1 IAT sensor. Bad practice I read over and over is if either frequency or 512g /sec is hit is to adjust and rely solely on the PE vs RPM table and ‘guess’ AFR enrichment with boost increase. I would not advise for many reasons and may be a quick fix for that altitude and baro, but is far from optimizing power. The best alternative is to get a larger MAF such as a Powr100 if the frequency is hit, reducing velocity. If the 512g/sec is hit, you can scale the IFR table along with the MAF table (and all accompany tables that look at g/sec of air). Resolution is lost, but not to a degree you think. This however is not an easy task, and all your values are now false, including the scanned values, you really have to be on your toes. Look at an example as what it takes to re-scale an ECM

In the end it is up to the tuner / car owner to go SD route or MAF route, either one when dialed in correctly, works and works well. SD however (since this is a Gen III car), you can avoid the table scaling as well as take advantage of the Boost Enrichment features that come with a 2 Bar. Throttle response will be crisper than any MAF. The only known downfall to SD tuning is having the location of the IAT sensor and if it’s susceptible to heat soak, throwing off proper fueling values when sitting in traffic.

MAF Specifics / Speed Density

As for other variables such as cam grind, the LS6 2002+ has decent lift, duration and LSA that post blower friendly better than any other LS GM Cam.

204/218 int/exh @ 0.05" duration

0.551" / 0.547" int/exh lift

117 LSA

ABC’s of PCVs

As for the PCV system, as I’m sure you forgot about by now… we must keep this intact, no open air leaks, no letting the computer compensate for the difference of un-metered air, especially since we are running with a pure MAF only tune. Speed Density won’t matter as much as it’s all calculated on the perfect tune we give it, right? Way too many don’t seem to have a full understanding of a PCV system. I have a whole section on PCV discussion from deletion to improper open air filter on the valve cover. A PCV vacuum system is the proper way for crankcase ventilation or to keep it stock.

The second best method is to use a double catch can, incorporate a check valve (due to boost) and to tune the ‘un-metered’ leak into the MAF until SD later on. Diagrams on this are shown in the PCV section. I know it’s mentioned prior about the ‘air leak’, but who has the dollars for a crankcase vacuum pump? It’s not ‘ideal’, we will just tune it in; it’s a second close option that works.

Here is a two catch can, single procharger, no PCV Vacuum pump PCV setup for an LS6.

More on PCV here – Including pictures of Constructed PCV Vacuum pump assemblies.

The following is a detailed procedure to integrate a procharger system into a Gen I CTS-V. Including the tuning!

Let’s get started!

To know progress, we need a reference, so, Dyno pre-procharger run;

*AFR is Post-cat using an ‘Up the pipe Dynojet Wideband – average of 0.4 less Pre-cat. (eg. 13.4:1 Post cat = 13.0:1 Pre-cat Using a Bosch LSU 4.2 before the cat.)

GREEN – Bone stock Factory Car Run

RED – TUNE only – goal was 20 rwhp from a tune only (close)

BLUE – 92mm Fast intake / Ported 90mm throttle / 160° stat / Trash Can intake – re-tune.

Test2

All future runs and tuning will be on the same new eddy current dynojet used above. This will allow us to do some steady state tuning, especially when we get into SD.

Well, looks like the Head Unit purchases is the correct standard rotation, but clocked at 2pm (Position C). We need a clocking at 10pm or position A. So, we can send the unit for clocking to procharger for 130+ US plus shipping both ways or …ahh it can’t be that hard. The oil Slinger sits at bottom, along with drain plug and dipstick on top. There are different size dipsticks for the ones that are at position B, luckily we are going from one side to another so no worries there.

There is a decent write-up from A&A Corvette Performance on the steps required for re-clocking we can just take this as a guideline. Clocking Guide.

Few things missing though, torque specs and some internal part numbers that may come in handy.

6000 Radial Bearing (oil gear shaft)*
2 ea- 6206 Radial bearing (input shaft)*
1 ea- GMN Brand bearing p/n S 6204 TA A7 **
1 ea- GMN Brand bearing p/n S 6205 TA A7 **
1 ea- National Seal p/n 223020 (input shaft)***
1ea- Output shaft seal****

*these are normal bearings which are used in the P1SC model, if you want the OEM ones for a D1SC, look for an ABEC-7 (A7 Bearing). These are available from McMaster-Carr

**both P1SC / D1SC uses the same ABEC-7 bearings for the output shaft. The GMN bearings are an ABEC-7 angular contact spindle bearing available from Motion Industries.

***This is a universal seal, you can get it from most autoparts stores like NAPA, etc...

****The output shaft seal is a unique seal made of cowhide for procharger and only procharger. You can however get it from superchargerrebuilds.com, as they are the only ones I know of that can get them, since ATI will not sell you any parts.

A good point to be brought up is, ABEC-7, also known as ISO 492 Class IV, bearings have a rating of 59,000rpm in this situation, yet procharger claims max of 62,000rpm. ABEC-9 or ISO 492 Class II bearings may be a nice upgrade if we are spinning near the blower rpm limits especially if we raise the rpm limiter from other future mods.

RECLOCKING THE HEAD UNIT

Alright let’s re-clock this thing from position C to A.

3/16” Allen Key, 9/64” Allen Key, 5/8” wrench, 5/32” Allen Key

P1SC_7

Drain the shipping fluid, some strange smelling green stuff. Using a 5/8” wrench, undo the drain plug.

Reclocking_P1SC (5)

Now remember, we need to change the position of the drain plug, thinking, how in the hell am I to get to this plug when its on the car… but regardless. The green fluid is what comes out of a new unit.

Reclocking_P1SC (4)

These plugs are snug and do take a bit to break them loose.

Rounded Rectangular Callout: 3/16” Reclocking_P1SC (6)

Now with the plug out of the way, un-do the 8 bolts with 9/64” Allen key. These will not take much effort to undo.

Rounded Rectangular Callout: 9/64” Allen Reclocking_P1SC (8)

For the next few steps, be very careful of a small thin gasket that goes around the entire housing. Take a tiny screw driver, try not to mark the finish, tap until the case separates, then use a putty knife and go around the housing.

Reclocking_P1SC (11) Reclocking_P1SC (12) Reclocking_P1SC (13)

Reclocking_P1SC (14)

The cover takes some effort and time; just make sure to raise the cover evenly using small pieces of wood.

Lift the oil slinger from the center gear, should just pop up, and then press down in the new position. A slight ‘click’ will be heard.

Reclocking_P1SC (17) Reclocking_P1SC (18)

Rounded Rectangular Callout: Dipstick

Now I was going to relocate the dipstick still inserted to the unit, but I noticed a metal sheet along the CNC groove, with the metal notched to keep the cover in place. This prevents the dip stick from ever coming entangled in the gears. I can not change this to the other side so its staying where it is.

We are done, its now clocked to the correct A position for the V. The case quickly goes back into place with even force and a rubber mallet. The 8 Screws and hand tightened with a ¼ turn past. The 5/32” Allen Key is for the plug opposite the dipstick on the top.

-end-

INJECTORS AND GAUGES

First, let’s get the injectors on the car, calibrate the ECM and verify the car is running as prior, which is pretty good at this point, won’t go on the dyno, but do a few logs, and a wide band road run if we want. This eliminates any possible multiple tuning issues. Many things to consider when running into boosted territory with fueling, more in the details! I will also go ahead and install a fuel pressure switch on the rail that will be wired to a bright LED near the gauge pod information panel being built. Will have it adjusted to close the circuit if pressure drops below 55psi. The basic three obvious gauges to use in an FI set up is a) Wideband b) Boost / Vac c) Fuel pressure. I’m using a fuel pressure gauge, but it’s on the rails, kind of useless there, and my AEM Lambda Wideband will only be used for tuning, but may be installed permanently down the road, especially if one chooses to go the SD (Speed Density) ECM calibration route.

Let’s begin, disconnect the battery, and relieve the pressure using the Schrader valve (If you still have stock rails).

Using an 8mm to remove the Negative cable to the battery, 5mm Allen Key for the fuel rail and 3mm Allen key for the Fuel Rail Post (For the FAST fuel rails).

A conservative 15 minutes per side to carefully remove each injector and install the larger Green Top.

1. Remove all ECM Connections using a large flat head screwdriver, press towards injector, and pull by bottom on connector.

2. A rocking motion is best for pulling injectors out of the intake (as well as installing these injectors) as a direct pull or push in is held back by the O ring.

Once installed, re-connect the battery, do a flash to the ECM then turn the key to engage the pump. It’s a good idea to look over all the fuel connections, injectors for leaks while the rail is pressurized before starting.

-end-

42lb SVO Green top Injector Details Here – Including Tuning

I ended up using these below, for future stroker or forged setup with more boost.

60# DEKA – Siemens EV1 (Currently Continental brand) Injector Details here – Including Tuning

I highly encourage getting Flow Matched injectors to reduce cylinder imbalances.

Custom gauge pod replacing center console ashtray is in a separate write-up. Just took some measurements, cut some plastic up, cover up with some matching dash vinyl, and install the Boost / Vac gauge, the N20 Gauge (don’t ask) and an LED to let the driver know BAP is activated at 5psi boost, and another LED to warn of low fuel pressure via pressure switch set for 55psi trigger. I won’t bore you with this so I’ll leave it separate of this document.

Installation of Gauges

Calibrating new 103mm MAF

TUNING OF THE 103mm MAF – Calibration is REQUIRED changing from stock to SLOT Hitachi style!

PowerMaf gives a generic MAF curve to use as a starting guide when tuning. This is covered in more detail in the tuning portion.

Tear down and custom

Let the madness begin…

Disconnect the Battery if not already done using 8mm wrench.

Using a flat screw driver, there are several clips that hold the bumper in place along the top, bottom and wheel wells of the vehicle.

With the wheel well covers out of the way, disconnect all fog and signal light electrical connectors.

There are 2 bolts and a nut that are located on the upper outer lip of each side. Remove the nut and loosen the two bolts using a 10mm socket.

The studs/bolts are keyhole locks that hold the bumper in place. Remove by sliding forward (preferably with two people at the same time to avoid bumper buckling)

Remove Serpentine Belt – 15mm Bolt Tensioner

Remove AC belt

Disconnect MAF

Remove all Intake plumbing to throttle

Disconnect FAN plugs

10mm bolts fan assembly

Remove cross head coolant line to radiator

Drain and remove radiator

Remove Upper Radiator hose

Drain and remove AC condenser

Disconnect Front Ambient Temperature sensor

Disconnect Horns

Remove all Radiator Shrouds – clips and bolts

Disconnect Washer fluid pump

Disconnect Head light washer fluid lines

Remove Power Steering Cooler

Intercooler

The intercooler chosen was a Mishimoto M line Tube and Fin style large intercooler. This will easily support larger head unit or more boost in the future.

More on intercoolers

Remove the Bumper rebar… this is a critical safety feature and its STRONGLY recommended to keep this as part of the car when done.

Will not remove as many others do, just to fit the intercooler desired, there are other ways, regardless of hours spent.

4 nuts and bolts each side holds the bumper rebar

We are installing an M Line Tube and Fin Intercooler that is 27 ½ “ inches in length and will not quite fit within the current bumper setup. Trimming is required; removal of bumper is not an option. It is noted that the bumper will be held by three bolts rather than the four from the factory.

Custom Aluminum Brackets are used to mount the Intercooler.

Sliced open hose was used as cover for the cut area. Intercooler mounting bolts were supplied.

Washer Fluid Container / Pump Relocation

Piping for the intercooler was a very difficult task. Moving the ECM container outward and on an angle to allow the 3” tube bend on the driver’s side is required.

On the passenger side, the washer fluid container / pump assembly must be angled, modified and moves further to the passenger side to allow the 3” bend on the after-cooler side.

Custom aluminum brackets are made along with bolt stands to move the assembly over. In doing so, though, the container now hits the fog light assembly on the lower bumper fascia. You want to keep all your stock stuff? Either a shorter length intercooler must be used OR spend the time and custom fabricate a new fog light assembly, low profile so there is no interference.

The fog light assembly custom assembly is a must on the passenger side, and only some light dremel trimming required on the driver’s side to allow the ECM box room.

How close the washer fluid container is below

3” - 90° elbow from intercooler…

All bolts are 10 or 13mm that hold the assembly. Noting that there are hoses as well as electrical connections to the pump that must be disconnected and later down the road, extended (yes, including the power connector for the pump – seen later)

This was a ton of fiddling around.

In the end, this is what was done to the top support, and the lower and back anchoring points.

FINAL dry fit. – Notice we are going from 3’ to 4” going up towards the throttle. – trust me, it fits nicely, with no rubbing (later shown how)

Now that we have enough room for the piping, confirmed of course, the bumper will not go back on… time to change the fog light assembly on the passenger side.

Patience and dry fitting and repeat!

MAKE SURE NOT TO ALTER the ALIGNMENT SCREWS OR THEIR STRUCTURE INTEGRETY.

What was done on the drivers side! - both sides get the same treatment!

For the Drivers side, removing the ECM out of the container:

10mm bottom bolt holds the ECM flap on the bottom in place.

13mm socket / wrench holds the box to the back side of the bumper.

Remove the container, and dremel the lower hole to as close to the back side of the container as possible. This gives just enough angle flair away from the intercooler for 3” piping to fit.

Reinstall ECM and test. This is what the final product looks like.

Power Steering and brackets

15mm sockets and a case of beer

Now this was some nightmare, re-do and re-do and fit the blower and main bracket to see if changes were correct and angles were proper.

3 bolts hold the main power steering bracket to the driver’s side head

2 bolts hold the reservoir, 2 hoses go to the reservoir (this will be relocated later…)

Remove the reservoir / disconnect the PRESSURE SIDE hose to avoid kinking.

Power steering Pump Pressure line pn: 89060184 if you happen to kink and damage the line like we did. Doh!

73.49 US mistake, but sure beats the piss out of the 244 GM Canada wants.

Trimming the Main Spacer Bag

Required is 3/16” inch steel to space out the Power Steering pump to keep serpentine pulley alignment

Cereal box cardboard is choice for manipulation and making templates

By now we are wishing we had bought EPP (Exotic performance Plus) power Steering bracket that was available a few years back!

So how this is going to work, is rather than using the bolts from the front of the pulley to the head directly, since we will be moving the pump slightly down and more to the right (drivers side) there are no holes to hold the pump, so, the template will overhang off the head slightly giving the ability to bolt from the back side, and the third hole will be threaded into the steel.

You can see how close we get to the head unit, and noting the rotation angle for the pressure side line to miss the volute on the blower.

Bracket is installed and head unit is put on – dry fit ONLY! -all will be removed for pinning crank and installing pulleys.

Power steering Reservoir Relocation

Good spot for this to go is near the brake reservoir. More aluminum fabrication and extensions of the hoses, covered by grey stripped Split loom. (High Temp)

Pinning the Crank

While the power steering bracket and pump are removed, this is a great time (due to limited room) to pin the crank.

Now, I purchased the Pinning kit (Procharger version aka, horizontal...) pn, 3GKMM-004 that comes with a 0.25" pin. The jig measures 2.100" in diameter.

This pinning kit is great for pinning the stock balancer or an oil style fluidampr to the crank and is recommended Now to use this style pinning kit with an aftermarket balancer, ATI pn, 918853, the new version of damper, will not work.

This damper comes separate, and a steel hub is pressed onto the crank where all the pulleys and balancer are bolted onto.

Using the Procharger Pinning kit on this requires grinding of the jig as the inner diameter of the hub is 2.035" (remember the jig is 2.100").

I had to step back and think this over. The hub is keyed from factory. Properly, the crank should be keyed as well, and then a key is used. Same way as the procharger head unit pulley is fitted. Unfortunately, keying the crank requires removing the crank.... well, not yet. I will though, remember, when that 4.00" crank is purchased, to have it keyed.

ATI (Performance) makes a pinning kit pn 918993 (ATI non-procharger version, aka vertical) which a hole is drilled vertically into the snout of the crank, then insert a 3/16" pin. This just happens to fit nicely in the 0.1905" keyway width on the hub. Keying is out, so second best option is in, Pinning kit 918993.

REMOVING THE STOCK DAMPER and CRANK pulleys

Breaker bar to loosen bolt. REMOVE BOLT!

Trick – Use a drive socket extension to use as a ‘push off’ point for the pulley puller. This works much better than using the stock bolt, backing it off, then pulley, then bolt (running out of thread) It also prevents slipping off the stock bolt head.

Remove the Idler pulley Use stock bolt to hold pinning Jig

FOLLOW THE PINNING INSTRUCTIONS PROVIDED!

Bending the ABS brake lines using a large socket prevents kinking of any sort.

Clearance is required for the large blower pulley.

The purple tagged brake line only needs to be swung towards the front of the car. The middle two need to be bent down using the socket as shown.

As per instructions by ATI, light drilling on the Damper to match with the un-threaded portion of the bolts being used. (This is printed right on the damper as well)

Damper Installation (.doc)

Using a NEW stock crank bolt. Bin#05GD01 or GM pn 12557840 – stock length with red loctite.

It has to be mentioned that the ATI pulley design (AC pulley, Damper) is shit, period. To have a long bolt go through a THREADED item, the damper, and then threat into an AC pulley is poor design. Its basic principal you can never achieve the best bolt tq on two separate pieces of metal that are both threaded and you risk running out of thread on one before full ‘clamp’ on the next piece of metal.

To boot, the CUSTOM HUB and the AC pulley had required RE-TAPPING as ATI had done a piss poor job. So much that the bolts supplied would not even thread into each individually. It’s not like ATI is cheap cost wise by any means.

Damper and Pulley configuration Issues and Solutions

It’s NOT 918853 Super Damper as this is for the GTO type setup, the incorrect hub length and incorrect AC spacing would arise from this but you do use the damper and AC pulley from 918853 Kit.

It’s also NOT the 917345 kit C5 type, even though you get the proper A/C 4 rib pulley spacing, the main is an 8 rib, which I am not 100% sure, but this would be used for corvette procharger kits as their blower runs off the 8 rib main serpentine, not requiring an outer pulley, so the Hub and assembly you get only has 9 screws (holes), not 12. This will not work.

So which one do you use?

Well, this is what you order.

1) 918853 Kit, build with 916032 Hub with 3 x 3/8 drill, tap on a 3.2” BC.

The breakdown is as follows:

Damper – pn ATI-

A/C Pulley – pn ATI-

Modified Hub – pn ATI-916032 – 12 bolt holes

Bolts from 918853 Kit – 12 bolts (6 flush)

8 Rib Crank Blower driver pulley pn # DC033A-081 with conditions.

ATI will charge a 40 US dollar fee for the Customizing of the Corvette style hub.

When this is all done, everything lines up as it should, and you have proper rib for all belts.

I would like to clarify the use of the ATI part number #DC033A-082 Ideally you want the DC033A-081 which measures 3-9/16” thick, 8-rib, 3 bolt patter, meant to sit in a recessed lip for the now discontinued Fluidampr 740102 balancer. If you were using ATI damper, you would go with the DC033A-082 when ordered which is approximately 1” less thick. Well, that works fine and dandy for a GTO, but welcome to MOD HELL! Or V hell, this does NOT work!

So, Install the 918853 Damper on the corvette modified hub, so your AC and Accessories line up, use the -082 which any sales man would think you need, and your 1” short, that’s never a good feeling.

You NEED TO USE the -081 which will have a tiny offset on the blower pulley… or find the old Fluidampr brand.

Now an option here is that many GTO users upgrade their pulley to an eight inch diameter pulley for better boosting curves. ASP makes these pulleys, but be prepared to fork over the coin, and from what I have seen and read, they should be the needed 3 – 9/16’ deep (thickness) required. BUT, and this is a BUT, being larger diameter, simply rounding the ABS brake lines (using the socket method of course) would probably not be enough, you would need to relocate that ABS. (PITA) and they would have to make it so it mates to the ATI 918853 damper.

This is what happens when you use the WRONG combination. Different pulleys!

Trimming the Alternator

Why you may ask? Well, it’s simple. Need the room. Off of the 3” Volute from the head unit, there is rubbing no doubt with the silicon coupler. Any movement along with contact = wear and reduced longevity.

4” Intake (after intercooler) – 103mm MAF – Custom Screen – Electronic Extensions

Extend the wiring harness for the FANS, the Washer fluid Pump and the MAF…

The proper way of course: Solder, heat shrink and grey stripped heat rated tubing.

For the MAF wiring. Supplied by POWRMAX – none of this is needed of course, if going SD (Speed Density for a tune)

For the 4” pipe to fit from the throttle, we first need to alter the upper coolant hose and its connection. Luckily GM was nice enough to have 2 ribs on the engine side… it’s like they almost knew…

Using part number 62120 GoodYear number of a radiator hose. This gives the closest maneuvering around the massive 4” ducting and MAF.

Cutting this hose in the middle and adding a plastic extension gives the proper distance left.

To give a bit more room for all of this, a bit of notching and shifting of the RAD assembly forward proves rewarding, nothing is rubbing!

<< Nothing is touching!

An anonymous install off the internet: This shows a severe rubbing point that would no doubt lead to failure.

Procharger and Brackets

Bypass valve – Please understand what a Bypass valve IS BOV vs Bypass and Functions

Intake air

Changing the oil – thinking ahead

The Proper Cold air that will feed the blower is a hole saw away… Another hole to get at the OIL plug!

Using the RX-4140 (3.5” flange, 4” Dia, 5.75” length), this fits perfectly within the fender when all covers are put together.

Using the Purchased F body inlet hat, this requires some heat modifications to fit, ends up working well.

The Inlet hat though, with this new blower inlet height, does show some air flow is lost due to its protrusion into the hat.

Melt the top portion of the Inlet hat to fit between the strut tower and the blower.

NEVER use silicon for the inlet side of a procharger. Only hard Plastic, ribbed flex plastic or piping such as aluminum. Many people on forums claim of actual collapsing of even 4 ply silicon couplers on the inlet side.

RU-2690 (small K&N)

For the main bracket, the lower bolt, meant for a GTO, will not work in this case. (This is the bolt that goes through the alternator). A bolt stand must be made to have proper pressure and solid stability for the lower portion of the bracket. Of course, the newly positioned Power steering pump is in the way… so trimming is required.

This bypass valve can be adjusted using the nut on top to adjust how much vacuum is required to keep the plunger open.

Horns – Coolers – Fans – PCV – Power Steering Cooler

Purchase one 12” and one 10” Fan – Push style of course, since we are not in front of the radiator and condenser, there is a difference!

Signal Ducap Electric fans come with mounting kits. 10” is 1400cfm Push 12” is 1550cfm push. It is unknown what the stock flow numbers are, I have never been able to find that information. Not a fan of these mounting kits as they are one time use jobbies. Tie wraps that go through the condenser and Radiator using plastic knob ends.

Pn 842-210 / 842-212 (2 fans)

The fans come with a brass looking motor cap, which may show through the grill, so some high temp black paint did the trick for esthetics.

Factory wiring connectors are one of each, Drivers side is a Male end and the passenger side is a female end. Ended up cutting the ends and soldering. It is preferred to use the weather connections given. This could have been done by using the fan connector itself and then soldering to that connection giving the ‘Plug and play’ functionality. But GM used a male connector on one of the fans meaning there was no donor plug.

Extensions for Fans. Fans painted black

The horns, just another pair of items to clutter the place…

The front end all done

The power Steering cooler fits nicely on a horizontal plane. Don’t see this being too much of an issue cooling wise.

As stated earlier, the PCV is very important and must be implemented. Plugging this causes issues with condensation and well as instant oil odor that would enter the vehicle.

A Check Valve is a MUST with boosted vehicles. Many don’t run them, but why pressurize the crankcase if there is an easy method to prevent it.

Using the drawn diagram below…

The best priced and most functional Catch cans I have found were through www.saikoumichi.com/SPLIT_DC3_page.htm

Easy to deal with and makes great product.

IF you manage to get your hands on the Turbo STS kit, these kits came with the slickest Check valve I have found…

BAP Install

TUNING – Oh yea…the fun stuff!

ENTER THE TUNING HERE

Final Pictures and Video

www.buygmpartsworldwide.com is your friend. I have found them to be the cheapest, as well as they will ship outside the US using Fedex at a very reasonable rate and quick.

Appendix:

www.buygmpartsworldwide.com

www.atiracing.com

www.brutespeed.com

THANK YOU CORY VIRTUE for your Expertise and skills on helping with the installation!

End